Equipment for a Leopard Gecko
Viv-Exotic VX-24 or LX24, these are big enough for an adult pair.
Lighting is for viewing only we would recommend a PT-2110 Sun Glo Neodimium Daylight lamp 60 watt combined with an Arcadia ADCH reptile lamp holder.
Use a Royce Heat Mat 10x12" on 24/7 as background daytime heat. Along with PT-2044 Ceramic Heat Emitter Heat Wave Lamp 40W and a komodo ceramic lamp fitting and a Safety cage. Combine this with a Pulse proportional Thermostat; this should be set at 87–90 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and turned down to 70-75 deg F during the night.
We recommend two thermometers PT-2465 place one at each end to show the cool temperature and hot end temperatures to indicate that there is a heat gradient.
For baby Leopard Geckos we recommend brown wrapping paper, wallpaper backing paper or newspaper for the first year. As they can get compaction of the gut by ingesting substrates, like Calci sand, sand, peat, beach chips etc. After a year old the best substrates are playpen sand, Calci or Desert sand, Aspen
Use a PT-2851 Reptile Hide Out Cave Small for youngsters and a PT-2853 Hide Out Cave Large for adults. A PT-2801 Water Bowl is required along with two or three plastic plants, these will give the Vivarium that finished natural look, choose from PT-3000 to PT-3052.
Calcium and vitamins: Exo-Terra Calcium. Exo-Terra Multi Vitamin Powder.
Many reptiles require a diet based on live or fresh foods, due to their specific feeding habits. These are readily available, but in themselves do not offer a balanced supply of nutrients. To ensure your pet receives a properly balanced diet, it is important to increase the nutrient content of these foods with a nutrient supplement.
The Leopard Gecko is found in the arid grasslands of Pakistan and India. It normally grows to between 6 and 8 inches long. They will become quite tame with handling and make excellent pets. When choosing a Leopard gecko make sure that the eyes and skin are clear, it has a robust body and that it is alert, active and responsive.
A 24" x 18" x 20" vivarium will house up to 2 geckos. The more geckos you keep the bigger the tank must be. Full spectrum lighting is not essential as geckos tend to hide up in the day and are more active at night. A 60 watt coloured bulb or Ceramic heat emitter should be enough to heat the above tank to a basking area of about 87 – 90 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and then bring the temperature down to between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit for the night. This can be controlled by use of a dimmer switch or a dimmer thermostat. You will also need a thermometer inside the cage.
Paper makes an excellent substrate to put on the bottom of your tank for hatchlings up to a year old, and once they are older you can use reptile sand.
Geckos like places to hide so kit out your tank with some rocks and artificial plants, which will give them a choice of hides.
A shed/hide box with a hole at the side for entry/exit and filled with moist vermiculite is ideally placed at the cooler end of the tank and is excellent for aiding the gecko to shed their skin. Make sure to keep this box moist, so give it a spray each day.
Small water bowl for drinking.
Leopard Geckos like crickets; this is their main diet. Make sure that the crickets you feed are not too big for the animal to handle. A good measure is to feed crickets, which are no bigger than the size of the gecko’s head.
Prior to feeding your gecko you will need to gut load the crickets, which means, feed the crickets up so that they have some goodness to give the gecko once eaten. Things that can be used are orange slices, vegetables; tropical fish flakes and dried dog food. Feed the crickets 12 – 24 hours before you feed the gecko. You will need to dust the crickets with a calcium supplement prior to feeding. For young geckos you will need to feed twice daily and dust at every other feed and then from about 6 – 7 months old reduce it to twice weekly.
Only feed as many crickets that can be eaten in a 10 – 20 minute period, otherwise you will have a lot of crickets running around the cage and it has been known for crickets to damage sleeping geckos. Other insects that appeal to the gecko are mealworms, but only feed these about once a week, as they are not especially nutritious. It is advisable to snip/pull the head off the mealworm prior to feeding and offer them in a small shallow bowl. Wax worms are another favourite but only use these as a treat and feed them no more than about 2 or 3 each week. Once the gecko has reached adult size then feeding them a ‘pinkie’ (day old mouse) once a week will also help to keep them nice and healthy.
Always handle your gecko with care, especially the tail. This is the gecko’s defence mechanism and if pressure is applied to the tail then it can drop off. A new tail will grow again but will never be as nice or as long as the original.
Never keep two males together as they can fight, especially if there is a female around.
Spend time getting to know your gecko, don’t just watch, really observe as they will keep you fascinated for hours.